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Thursday, April 5, 2012

A lot of catching up to do! (To Trier)

We're behind in our writing.  We've been several places and had new experiences here that are post worthy.  I have found it difficult to balance quality time with Harper, quality time with the house and laundry, and quality time just for myself.  So, if we get behind and you get several at one time, have mercy on us.

Trier, Germany
I actually don't mind driving around in this town.  It doesn't seem as confusing to me as the other places I've been.  There are also a lot of directional signs to landmarks here as were not in other places we've been.  I've been twice; Jeremy has only been once.  I went with my parents while they were here visiting, but we got there late and didn't get to see everything we wanted to see (Thursday, February 23rd).  So, Jeremy, Karl, Harper, and I went Saturday, March 24th.  I wanted to visit the Roman Baths and the Amphitheater.

Trier is set along the Mosel River in the middle of wine country.  We didn't take many noteworthy pictures of the vineyards, but they are literally as far as you can see in both directions.  The vineyards are literally on the sides of the most vertical slopes I have ever seen.  I have no idea how they harvest and take care of the vines due to the sheer incline of the mountains.  I hear they have a great wine festival.  Trier was taken over by the Romans in 16 BC and was considered the best "Rome away from Rome," by the Romans.  So when they took over Trier, they built a ton of Roman stuff.  We didn't see everything in Trier; we hit the big stuff.  The Amphitheater was pretty cool.  It's Trier's oldest Roman structure (circa AD 100) and seated 20,000 spectators.  It was a gladiator-style structure with cages for animals and a basement with a stage lift.  The stands (made of stone) were demolished in 1211 so the monks from the monastery Himmerrod built their houses with the leftover demolition.  It was excavated in 1816, 1854, 1891-92 and the arena basement in 1908.  Because I've been to Greece and been to an amazing amphitheater I knew what to do when I got to the middle of this structure.  Jeremy and Karl were at the very top of what were the stands (now just grassy hills).  I walked to the middle and spoke in a regular inside voice as if the boys were right next to me.  They heard me perfectly.  The way they came up with a "mic-system" was just amazing.

The Dom (Cathedral) was the most amazing church we have seen so far.  It's the oldest Christian church north of the Alps.  It originated in AD 330, then it burned and got rebuilt several times and the structure there now takes up three blocks.  When I was there with my parents, the organist played and it felt like the music was an actual tangible object.  It was beautiful.

The Kaiserthermen (Imperial Baths) were super crazy cool.  It is the site of a 4th-century bathing palace that housed cold- and hot- water baths and a sports field.  There's not much left of the baths nor the palace, but the walls and the basements that do remain are just beautiful.  The Romans knew what they were doing when it came to archways and masonry.  They allow you to wonder around the grounds and all through the basement part.  It's a crazy maze of underground hallways where the temperature changes and you can see your breath.  It was worth my second trip back just to see the massiveness of the structure.


Ok, two more things and then I'll leave you alone on the Trier history lessons.  We didn't go through the Porta Nigra (Black Gate) on my second trip (the boys were tired).  I did go through it though when I went with my parents.  It was pretty neat too.  The history behind it is really the reason you'd want to go walk up all those flights of swirly stairs, but it was worth the little bit of Euro we paid.  It was the city gate built in the 2nd century; one of the best military defenses the Romans had in that area.  In the 11th century the upper stories were converted into two churches, and then completely disassembled in the 18th century.

Last thing...we've been trying to remember the places we've eaten too.  We're not doing a good job of that, but Jeremy remembered this one.  We ate at a place called the Currybrat.  Apparently it's Berlin's trademark meal, and it made its way to the south.  I thought it was good; the boys weren't impressed.  Though I have to say that it was very difficult to eat that day.  We sat outside on the Hauptmarkt and were completely the center of attention by the passerbyers.  We got more stares than necessary.  It was actually very uncomfortable, and we couldn't figure out why so many stares.  Jeremy said his mustache was the cause, Karl said our Appalachian sweat shirts were to blame.  I just think we look American.  I don't know, but that was the first time I have felt like an outsider (well, besides the obvious lack of communication skills when ordering our food or buying something).

~Tara

Hansel and Gretel anyone ? (To Calw)

We drove to Calw, Germany in the Black Forest Sunday, February 26th.  (It's called the Black Forest because of the dense growth of conifers that block out the sun from inside the forest area.)  The description in our travel book made it sound great and wonderful, but it wasn't.  It could possibly be the best place ever and we were just there in the off season when there was NOTHING to look at.  It is the home of Nobel Prize-winning novelist Hermann Hesse.  Now I can say that the buildings were the traditional style that most American's picture in their heads when thinking of the half-timber houses with sharp gables.  That was neat.

The best part of the whole trip though was the drive home.  We ended up going the scenic route which took us through that mountains and many, many tunnels.  The tunnels were open on the side of the mountain, so as you drove through you could see the country-side.  We must have past easily five castles on the way home.  We went through a ton of villages and all along windy roads.  Gorgeous!  The worst part of the drive home was that I had to drive it.  For some reason Jeremy wanted to sightsee like the rest of us get to when he drives! :)

We will be making more trips to the Black Forest, and hopefully we'll catch it in the right season without a lot of touristy traffic!

~Tara



Back in the day. (To Heidelberg)

My dad was stationed in Heidelberg the year it was founded!  (Just kidding, Dad, but seriously a long time ago.)  When my parents came to visit two weeks after we arrived in Germany, that was the first place he was itching to go.  So, we went. (Monday, February 20th)

Heidelberg was the political center of the Lower Palatinate (defined as: the territory of the German Empire ruled by the count palatine of the Rhine).  France sacked the town twice in the late 1690s.  It's the site of Germany's oldest and most famous university.  It's a pretty great tourist town, too.  The Haupstrasse has a ton of shopping (including an Apple store).

We visited the Schloss, which means castle but that is its name (weird).  We did not go through the tour.  We would have had to wait a long time for the next one to run and Dad was antsy to get moving. :) So we walked around the entire Schloss campus, which was quite amazing.  We visited the Deutsches Apotheken-Museum (German Apothecary Museum), which I really had no interest in but it was free.  We took some great pics and moved onto the Haupstrasse were we looked for Dad's old haunts.  There have been a lot changes in 40 years though.  We went in February in the middle of the week, so not much was open (in the way of attractions).  We were able to walk into the churches, but they were closed.  We walked the Alte Brucke (Old Bridge), and took more pictures.  We did a lot of walking and reminiscing.  Oh, I need to add the parking experience we had.  Parking and driving in Heidelberg was not easy at all.  We pretty much saw the entire town and the all the neighborhoods trying to find a place to park.  Jeremy was unbelivably patient though the whole process.  Dad and I are not good back seat drivers.  Jeremy finally spotted a parking deck that our car barely fit in.  Driving that big old Taurus X though the skinny driveways and parking spots is not fun, but Jeremy did it like a champ.





Ok, so previously in on of our posts I mentioned that we went back to Heidelberg with our favorite Karl (because he was driving = free gas).  We went Saturday, March 10th when the weather was showing signs of Spring.  There is a huge difference going site-seeing on the weekends.  It was packed, and it wasn't even warm out.  Craziness!  But we got to see different things than when we went with my parents.  We went back to the Schloss and again opted out of the tour.  I'll get into the castle one day before we leave.  We ate at some restaurant on the Haupstrasse and loved it!  They put a slice of orange in my ginger ale.  Yum!  We took our time walking up and down the Haupstrasse going in the shops we wanted to and hitting all of the churches on the way.  We ventured into the Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Ghost).  This church dates back to 1398, and of course this church was also ravished by ruffians and thieves.  I think that's the normal story for all important buildings in Germany.  Ok, but what was different about this church was that they let you climb to the bell tower.  Jeremy volunteered to stay with the baby, which was good because I guarantee you that there was not enough room in that stairwell for her to be carried up to the top.  Walking people only allowed.  It was the skinniest spiral staircase I've been in.  I hear Cologne is worse with their churches and whatnots, but wow!  If you are seriously claustrophobic, you will NOT want to do this one.  There isn't enough room in there for a handrail, so they give you a rope to hold on to, and trust me you will hold on to it.  I'm 5'5" and I had to duck through some of the areas.  Once you get to the top though, the view is great.  You can walk around the entire bell tower.  The view is great; you can see the Marktplatz and the Schloss perfectly from the top.  I didn't bring my camera, though I have to say I needed both hands to get up and down the staircase.  Going down was worse than up.  I was a bit green for about an hour and a half after my decent from the top.  I sat for a while to get my bearings.  Thought I was going to blow some chunks towards the end.  Great experience though; sorry Jeremy missed out on that.  After that, we were pretty much done with our day.  I think we'd seen about three churches along the Haupstrasse and done a little shopping and it was probably 1600.  We got in the car and drove the one hour home.  It's such a pretty drive too.

~Tara